Should I use Medical Grade Skincare?

I have been a lotions & potions junkie since I was in grade school. Of course, back then, what I put on my skin didn’t matter because I was 12 with invisible pores, no acne and not a wrinkle in sight. At 56, the landscape has changed considerably. Today, what I put on my skin matters. The right products literally change how my skin looks, and this, in turn, can make me feel better. The problem, of course, is that there are so many options out there. How do I know which ones are right for me? Then, there’s the question of whether I buy my potions at the drugstore or should I use the more expensive medical grade skincare? Well, here are a few of my thoughts on the subject (I also consulted some of my plastic surgeon and cosmetic dermatologist clients for their take)…..

See a Dermatologist

The first order of business is figuring out what your skin needs so see a professional. If you don’t already have a dermatologist, find one. At the very least, you should have a skin cancer check annually. It can save your life. But a dermatologist can also help you figure out the best products for your individual needs. For example, I didn’t get cystic acne until I turned 35. Treating it with over-the-counter zit creams didn’t work out so well as these products are geared towards teenagers, and my skin was older and dryer. My dermatologist recommended a regime that helped kill the bacteria without turning my face into the Sahara.

A dermatologist is a skin, nails and hair expert. Since your skin is the body’s largest organ, having it checked out annually by a professional is also a good way to stay on top of any potential health issues. My dermatologist was actually the one who discovered my breast cancer. A professional is also a great resource for the latest in medical grade skincare.

What is Medical Grade Skincare?

Medical grade skincare is a bit of a misnomer as you don’t always need a prescription to buy them. However, you often do have to get them through a medical professional such as a dermatologist, plastic surgeon or facialist. What distinguishes medical grade skincare is that the products have a higher concentration of active ingredients. This is also what makes them more expensive. Budget wise, I am not in a place where I can purchase only medical grade skincare. And frankly, I don’t think it’s necessary. Instead, I have pinpointed the things that bother me the most about my skin, and chosen the best products to address my issues.

Facial Aging is Personal

The thing about facial aging is that it’s multi-factorial. Depending on your genetics and lifestyle choices, your birthdays may show up on your face as:

• Fine lines & wrinkles
• Sun spots
• Hyperpigmentation
• Melasma
• Rosacea
• Broken blood vessels
• Sagging skin
• Uneven, “crepey” skin texture

It’s up to you to decide what bugs you, if anything, and what doesn’t. I have a vicious case of melasma on my neck from years of over tanning, but I can usually ignore it. However, my suddenly huge pores drive me bonkers. So, when I think about which products are going to give me the most bang for my buck, they are going to be the ones that improve skin texture and glow. Having said that, there is one product that everyone, no matter his or her age or skin concern, should be using and that is a retinoid.

Retinoid is Your Must Use Cream

Retinoid is the only product out there that has been proven to remodel the skin and prevent wrinkles. This is why it’s a must use for all. But do you choose over the counter Oil of Olay or cough up the bucks for a medical grade skincare product? You want to spend the money and this is why. Retinoid and retinol get used interchangeably, but they are not the same thing. A retinol, which is what you will typically find at the drugstore, is a retinoid or Vitamin A derivative, but it’s not as strong as a retinoid. So, this is one of those areas where I think it’s really worth it to go medical grade. It is also the only product that I use that is not totally “clean”.

As I’ve written about before, I replaced all of my skincare products with “clean” versions when I was diagnosed with cancer as I wanted to reduce my overall toxic load (you can check out my blog on it here). While I tried some lovely clean retinol products, including the one by Marie Veronique and African Botanics, neither was strong enough to really remodel my skin. So, I switched to the AlphaRet Peel Pads by SkinBetter Science.

And their Intensive AlphaRet Overnight Cream. I have noticed a profound improvement in my skin texture. My pores are smaller. I have fewer fine lines and my skin is smoother and healthier looking. Both products are also gentle enough to use on my very sensitive skin.

Vitamin C for Glow

The other product on which I am willing to spend money is something with Vitamin C. Applying a topical Vitamin C serum or cream in the morning helps improve the health of your skin, making it more radiant and glowing. And as we all know, glowing skin is happy looking skin. Up until I started chemotherapy and had to stop all of my lotions and potions as my skin couldn’t handle it, I used SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic. However, once I was able to go back to my skincare regime, I wanted a Vitamin C product that was clean. I started with Marie Veronique’s version of CE Ferulic. I liked it a lot. However, Goop came out with a Vitamin C product last year that is different from the rest. Here’s how.

The downside to Vitamin C is that it quickly degrades when exposed to oxygen. So, oftentimes, a product has been sitting on a shelf or in your medicine cabinet and declines in efficacy before you ever come close to finishing it. Goop’s product arrives unmixed. This way, the Vitamin C isn’t activated until you start to use it. It also, at 20%, has a higher dose of Vitamin C than other products. However, it does not have the E or Ferulic. I can’t say for certain if I like it better. But I can say that my skin is glowing, and I like the fact that it doesn’t have any bad stuff in it.

So, there’s the best friend handbook take on the medical grade skincare question. Spend the money on your retinoid and your Vitamin C. If you really want to go for it, add in a growth factor like SkinMedica® TNS Advanced Serum. My friends in the profession swear by it. Personally, it’s outside my budget for now, but maybe someday…..